After poring over catalogs all through January I usually find I
want a greenhouse by February so I can
get an early start with all the seeds I've ordered. Growing plants
from seed at home is not for everyone.
The plant selection at area nurseries and the farmer’s market
has steadily improved in the past few
years and you can now find unusual tomatoes and peppers at Project
Grow's plant sale. It is often easier to just purchase healthy
greenhouse grown plants from area growers and forget it.
Still, some people prefer to start things at home because they
can’t find certain varieties, or they just enjoy starting plants
from seed. For me, there is something special about any plant, from a
primrose to a tomato, that I started from a seed.
My first attempt at starting plants from seed was disappointing.
The seeds started readily enough but then grew tall and spindly,
leaning toward the window. Some seedlings grew fuzzy fungus around
their
bases and keeled over before they were even two inches high. By
the time I placed the seedlings outside the first breeze flattened
the few top-heavy survivors.
If you have had failures like these, or been afraid to try because
you’ve feared these kind of results,
take heart, because you can learn from my mistakes. I have since
successfully started everything from strawberries to leeks and dozens
of kind of flowers from seed under lights. I’m sure there are
other, better ways to proceed but this is what has worked well for
me.
Soil
It is important that whatever you use be light, well-drained,
moisture retentive and sterile. Unsterile soil harbors nasty fungal
diseases and also weed seeds which make it difficult to recognize
your seedlings. Rather than bake soil in the oven (it stinks to high
heaven) I find it easier to use commercial seed starting mixes like
Jiffy-Mix or Hoffman’s. You can also mix your own using peat moss,
perlite and vermiculite.
Containers
You can use clay pots or plastic food containers or anything you
have but it must have drainage holes. If the containers previously
contained plants you must wash them (the paranoid say with bleach) to
avoid the risk of disease. I usually find it easier to go the
ecologically unsound route and buy sheets of plastic six or 4 packs,
or liners. You can buy a whole sheet of these (12 six packs, 72 cells
per sheet, 12 four packs, 48 cells per sheet) for a couple dollars.
This will also tend to help you pack the most seedlings per square
inch of indoor growing space. Liners can be purchased locally at
Downtown Home and Garden or online.
Light
I’ve never lived anywhere that had nice sunny windows, and
Michigan has no sun in February anyway,
so I use artificial lights. You don’t need to do anything fancy
here. I use “shop light” fluorescent fixtures and the cheapest
available bulbs - cool white 40 watt. You can get these at Home
Depot or Lowe's. Newer fixtures come with thinner 34 watt bulbs to
save energy. However, you want to maximize the light output, so you
want 40 watt bulbs.
You want to mount the fixture on light- weight chains so you can
raise it easily as the seedlings grow. The light should only be
about two or three inches from the tops of the plants. I know this
seems really close but remember that most plants want full sun and
fluorescent tubea are very dim by comparison.
Fluorescent bulbs put out significantly less light as they age, so
if you decide to borrow a fixture out of
the laundry room or garage, you may want to replace the bulbs. If
used only for starting plants, the bulbs should be replaced every few
years.
The lights should be operated about 16 hours a day. I use a
grounded (3 prong) timer to turn them on and off. On the other hand,
my father, who figures that if 16 hours of light is good, then 24
should be better, starts seeds under fluorescent lights that are
never turned off
and has fine results.
Sowing the seeds
Fill the containers with grow mix and moisten it. You want the mix
moist but not sodden. I find it
easiest to bottom water the container and let it absorb the water
and then sow the seeds. Fine seed that
needs to be surface sown can be moistened after sowing with a
spray bottle. Under the controlled
conditions that we are creating the germination rate will be much
higher than when sowing outside so
don’t over sow.
Temperature and humidity
Seedlings usually sprout best with warmer temperatures and high
humidity. I have had best luck using
clear plastic domes that fit over a single flat. (also available
at Downtown Home and Garden). They
are easy to take on and off and last for years. Follow packet
directions, but most seeds will sprout
nicely at around 70 degrees. I usually set the flat under the
lights immediately so that the seedlings will
be exposed to light as soon as they emerge.
After the seeds sprout and have true leaves, prop the dome open
for a day or two to accustom the plants
to less humidity before removing the dome.
Watering and fertilizing
Plants should not be fertilized until they have at least two sets
of true leaves. Fish emulsion diluted to
half or a third strength works well. You may also be able to find
other organic fertilizers which don't smell quite so bad.
Hardening Off
At least a week before the plants are to be planted outside they
need to be accustomed to outdoor
conditions. This is called hardening off. If you don’t have a
cold frame, choose a mild day when it is
not blazing hot or pouring rain, and leave the plants outside for
an afternoon. An overcast day provides
less of a shock. Each day, increase the amount of time they are
outside. This will give the plants time
to acclimate to outdoor conditions before being set out in the
garden. I have two small cold frames and
try to get the plants outside as soon as there are warm days. At
first, wind is as much a danger than
anything else and a cold frame really helps.
